1/17/2024 0 Comments Spacing trex deck boards![]() Drilling pilot holes will make the job easier and help to prevent splitting, especially at the board ends. Use 3-1/2-inch deck screws to fasten the boards. To prevent cupping, install the new boards bark side up, so that the grain pattern is convex. Allow the board to dry before you coat and install it. For a weathered look that matches the existing boards, combine one (1) cup of baking soda with one (1) gallon of water, scrub the solution into the wood, and rinse it off. Be sure to coat the end grain of the boards. Sanding the boards can also help the stain/paint to adhere. If you’re using wood that accepts stain/paint poorly – as is typical of pressure-treated wood – you may need to allow the boards to dry for several weeks before you coat them. It will also help the new boards blend in with any old deck boards. Apply Stain (optional)Īpplying paint or stain can add years of service life to new deck boards. Avoid cuts that would leave knots at the ends of the board. Each board should span at least two joist spaces, and cuts should be staggered with those of neighboring deck boards. If possible, use a single board to span the distance and allow an 1/8-inch gap for expansion at each end. Measure the distance between existing deck boards. Apply a sealer to the top of the joists to help them resist rot. Make sure the top of each cleat/joist is flush with the top of the existing joist. Fasten the cleat/joist using framing nails or structural screws at the existing joist where you cut off a deck board and anywhere that a joist needs reinforcement. If necessary, add cleats or sister joists to support the replacement deck boards and to reinforce damaged joists. If you find rot in any structural member, decide whether to repair or replace it and learn how to avoid and prevent rot in the future. Verify that the joist hangers are plumb, free of rust, and not missing any fasteners. Inspect the joists for rot, too, especially if they contact the ground. Inspect them for rot or other damage and verify that they’re fastened securely to the posts and ledger board. Removing the deck boards will expose the joists and beams. Use a cat’s paw to extract deeply sunk nails or cut them. ![]() If you cannot remove a screw because the head is stripped, use an oscillating multitool or reciprocating saw to cut the screw flush with the joist. When using a pry bar to remove a board, place a block of wood under it so it won’t mar adjacent deck boards. If you cut along the centerline of the joist, remove any nails or screws from the cutline or shift the cutline to avoid them. To avoid cutting notches into the neighboring boards with the circular blade, use a jigsaw or oscillating multitool to finish the cut. Cut out the damaged deck board either flush with joist or along the joist’s centerline using a circular saw. ![]() Mark the cut line using a pencil and speed square. Offset the cuts at least one joist space from the end of neighboring boards and make sure that the remaining portion of the old deck board, if any, and the new board will span at least two joist spaces. If you’re not removing the entire board, decide where to make cuts. How to Remove Deck Boards & Replace Them Remove the Bad Boards from the Deck For composite decking, try to identify the manufacturer or brand and then match the color and style on the company’s website or at retail. Pressure-treated lumber, cedar, and redwood have their own distinct aromas. If you’re unsure of the wood species used, make a fresh cut and smell it. The new deck boards should match the look of what’s already on your deck.
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